Are you having a problem dealing with bee removal or wasps? Is it extremely difficult in your area to find a Bee keeper or a Bee Catcher for bee removal?
If you are looking for highly qualified, licensed and full equipped pest control professionals, call Bob on 0407 065 413 or email at firstname.lastname@example.org for fast action and permanent results.
How to Get Rid of Bees:
An untrained person is certainly not someone that you want when it comes to bee removal, a bee swarm or even a single bee can inflict painful and numerous stings and in the unfortunate possibility that you might be allergic, a single sting can possibly prove fatal.
It is highly recommended that if you wish to monitor any bee activity, such as their search for a new nest on your property, that this should be done at a safe distance, preferably in a protected area, such as the inside of your home. This will give you the safety that you should have and also gives you access to a phone, in order to call a Bee Catcher or Keeper or a pest control specialist well versed in bee removal.
It is imperative that you do not try to antagonize the bees by throwing rocks, spraying them or trying to cover their nest, all this will do is rile them up and put yourself in danger.
Best Time to Move Bees:
The best possible time to bee removal or relocate bees is prior to the erecting of a new hive. If at all possible, contact a bee keeper by looking them up in the yellow pages, they should be listed under: “Beekeepers and Apiarists”.
If there are multiple reporting’s of bees in the area or if it is spring time, you might have difficulty contacting the local beekeeper, in the interim it is advisable to stay clear of the area, this goes especially true of small children, since they might not know any better and could get seriously hurt.
If the bees have already built a hive, then it is highly recommended that a fully licensed, equipped and knowledgeable pest control specialist be contacted so that the proper form of action can be taken.
Bee Removal Canberra:
Anytime an untrained and ill-equipped person tries bee removal on their own it usually has all the markings of a disaster waiting to happen. An untrained person attempting to use chemical sprays or smokers in the vain effort of trying to calm or subdue the bees will more than likely cause the bees to swarm and attack leading to someone getting hurt and if they are allergic possibly worse.
Tips from Pest Control Professionals:
Prior to any attempt to remove the bees, it is advised that you first find out what type of bees you are dealing with.
If the nest is underground you will be needing a spray to kill wasps and is not a projectile sprayer, since you will need very little spray to go underground. However, if the nest is elevated you will need a hornet and wasp sprayer that is a projectile sprayer.
You will want the sprayer to provide a stream of at least 4 or 5 metres, this will give you plenty of room, in case you need to make a hasty retreat. It is advisable to repeat this process at least 2 to 3 times or that you are certain that the nest is now vacant.
If it has been determined that the nest has been vacated, it is probably safe to knock down the nest, if elevated or fill it with gravel or dirt if the nest was underground. Ensure that the area is bee or wasp clean before you give the ‘all clear’ signal’. This should solve your problem, until the next time migrations occur.
Bees and Wasps:
Both bees and wasps are generally known for their abilities to inflict painful stings and bites, which can be fatal at times, if a person is allergic to them. Not enough is said about the beneficial aspects of both and the important roles that each one has in the ecosystem.
Bees play a very important role in the pollination of both vegetables and flowers, without which we would have no naturally pollinated fruit or vegetable plants. Wasps also play an important role, in that they are the natural predators of such destructive insects, as the caterpillar that can easily decimate large areas of crops.
When these insects are dealt with properly and a person has a basic understanding of them, there should not be a problem. Wasps (Yellow Jacket) are known to be more aggressive, and the bee is normally not as aggressive, unless genetically altered and become Africanized Honey Bees or Killer Bees. These Killer Bees are very aggressive and have been known to attack humans with fatal results.
There are a number of ways to take care of any wasp or bee problem that you might have such as, chemical control, professional service control and hive or nest control.
When it comes to controlling the hive or nest this can be rather difficult, especially in dealing with wasps, since you have to remove the insects first (a wasp nest is usually underground) which can be done by raising the bees or using the smoke that is used in bee culture.
The problem with moving or removing a hive or nest is that in a great deal of instances, the hive is either damaged or destroyed all together. When you are using chemical sprayers to eliminate the wasps or bees make sure that you first read the label and follow all instructions verbatim.
These commercial sprays can be found at any home or garden store and at the larger supermarkets, just make sure that these sprays are specifically for bees and/or wasps.
In many instances it is more prudent to enlist the exterminating services of bee removal professional services, especially for those hard to reach areas, the homeowner is allergic or feels more comfortable having the job done professionally. The cost of this service will vary depending on the service that is required, so it is best to call around to get the best possible price.
As stated above, both wasps and bees are very important to the ecosystem and are at times thought of with great disdain, because of their capabilities to sting or bite and disrupt any outdoor function.
Both of these insects, the bee and the social wasp are ruled by a queen, maintained by workers and reside in colonies. When dealing with either one, whether it is the bee or the wasp you should be able to tell one from the other, since it will take different methods to control them, if it becomes necessary.
There are different methods that have been used in the past to control bees. One of these methods involves the painting of a former bee colony light blue; because rumor has it that the bees will not land nor will they establish a hive on the light blue paint believing that it is the sky. This theory has not been tested, nor proven.
The Difference between Bees and Wasps:
There are obvious physical differences between the bee and the wasp. The wasp is slender in build with a narrow waist, they appear to be shiny and smooth-skinned and have cylindrical legs. The most common type of wasps is the Yellow Jacket, the European wasp, paper wasp and the hornet.
The wasp is a predator that feeds its’ young arthropods and other insects as it develops in the nest. The wasp is very beneficial since it is the predator of the cricket, caterpillar, flies and other destructive and annoying pests. The wasp, at times, has been known to become aggressive around human food and is usually scavenging around outdoor activities if food and beverages are present.
The bee, on the other hand is hairy with a robust body and flattened hind legs used for collecting and transporting pollen. Almost 80% of the pollination required by vegetable seed plants, legumes, most fruits and many ornamentals are carried out by the honey bee. The honey bee feeds only on pollen (protein) and nectar (carbohydrates) and at times will be found around a trash can in search of a soda can or some other sugary food in order to feast upon.
Paper wasps, yellow jackets, and European wasps build their nests out of a papery pulp made from chewed up wood fibre and saliva. These nests are built in out of the way; quiet locations that at times will conflict with those of man.
The yellow jacket and the mud wasps nests are a series of rounded combs that are stacked in tiers and covered by an envelope of several layers of pulp. The paper wasps nest consists of one comb without the protective envelope and these wasps are sometimes referred to as the umbrella wasps, due to the shape of their nest.
The yellow jacket will usually build their nests below ground in old rodent burrows or any other type of cavity in the ground. They have also been known to build their nests under eaves, inside attics and wall voids and in trees or shrubs. The European wasp will build their nests in gardens, trees, along the sides of buildings and under eaves.
The paper wasp will build their nests under any horizontal surface and are usually found on the eaves of buildings, in the supports of roof voids, on limbs, sheds, barns, garages and other similar places. The mortar bee will utilize cavities in buildings, old mice burrows and other such locations and as with the honey bee the cells of their nests are made from wax.
The honey bee makes their nest out of wax in vertical honey combs, with the majority of their colonies in manufactured hives, but on occasion they will use voids in building walls, cavities in large trees or any other area that will offer some sort of protection.
Wasp and Bee Stings:
In order to defend themselves or their colony, bees and wasps sting and inject protein venom that everyone has a different reaction to. If you are allergic to the venom the reaction in some instances has been known to be fatal. However, a majority of us only have a local reaction that usually will entail itching, redness, tenderness to a great deal of swelling and burning.
Some of these reactions, namely the itching can last up to a week. Different wasps and bees have different forms of stingers. The mortar bee and the wasp can sting you more than once, since they are able to retract their stinger without injuring themselves and not leaving a stinger under your skin.
The bee, on the other hand has barbs on their stinger and when they sting you, the stinger remains under the skin. This stinger is attached to the digestive system of the honey bee and once they fly off, as a consolation, the bee does not have long to live. If stung by the honey bee, it is recommended that you scratch out the stinger immediately using your fingernail. Do not try to squeeze the stinger out, because all you are doing is forcing more of the venom under your skin.
Treatment for Stings:
The venom of both wasps and bees are different, so a reaction to a bee sting might not be the same reaction to a wasp sting. Normally, an allergic reaction to a sting would be a rash, hives, swelling away from the site of the sting, upset stomach, minor respiratory symptoms or headache.
These reactions are normally not life-threatening and can be treated with an antihistamine, in addition to the topical commercial ointment, vinegar, ice, meat tenderizer or honey to relieve the itching. In rare cases will immediate medical attention be required, if a person suffers a systemic, life-threatening allergic reaction that leads to anaphylactic shock and its’ effects, such as swelling and blockage of the throat, fainting and great difficulty breathing.
As stated, these instances are rare and those persons that are known to suffer from systemic allergic reactions to wasp or bee stings, immediate medical assistance should be obtained.
Control of Nests:
When it comes to controlling a bee or a wasp nest you must first identify not only the type of insect that you are dealing with, but also the location of the nest. The following information should be of some assistance in controlling the situation yourself or you can call in the services of a pest control professional that is experienced in bee or wasp control.
When it comes to controlling wasps, the best time of year to deal with them is in September/October when the queen has established her colony and the colony is still small. The only problem is, is that the colony is small and thus it is harder to find. When you do find the colony the best time of day to deal with them is at night when the temperature is below 5 degrees centigrade and the wasps have a great deal of difficulty flying.
If however, that you do not discover the colony until the fall, then control will not be necessary since the coming frost will kill the colony. One thing to remember is to never seal a wasp nest until you are sure that there are no surviving wasps inside the colony.
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